Category Archives: Community

Peace and love came to the Strip in the 1960’s. Then it vanished.

Atlanta Weekly December 5, 1982 pg.  (courtesy Miller Francis)

 Peace and love came to the Strip in the 1960’s. Then it vanished.

 By Rick Briant Dandes

Rick Briant Dandes is a former Atlantan who lives in New York. Hit most recent story for the magazine was about broadcaster Skip Caray.

It was a crowded place 15 years ago. There was always something happening on the Strip. At any hour of the day you had to push your way down the sidewalk. The streets were jammed, blocked by automobiles full of people come to gawk or to buy The Great Speckled Bird or sex magazines or drugs. Drugs were sold openly — there were passing fashions, but marijuana, LSD and mescaline were the standbys, the constants. The sales were so frequent, the competition so stiff, that dealers would hang bags of whatever they were selling out into traffic and wave them, chanting, “Ounces of hash, bags of grass.” When you walked down the street you were constantly being talked to, propositioned or one thing or another. At night, especially on weekends, the activity on the Strip was so frenetic and dense that traffic would be backed down Peachtree south of North Avenue.

All these memories seemed like a dream the other night, when I decided to revisit the section of Peachtree Street near 10th Street where Atlanta’s hippies used to hang out. The area was, as usual these days, almost deserted. One of the few places open was the Stein Club. It’s a bar that was a popular spot in the heyday of the hippies, and I went there to talk with David Heany, the co-owner. He led me to a table by the front window where we could look out onto the empty street.

“It’s all gone,” said Heany, who has lived in the area since 1969. He went on to say that in recent years many buildings in the area have been demolished. In their place are vacant lots, construction sites and condominiums. “It’s the midtown boom,” he said sarcastically.

It was 9:00 p. m. and in the bar about 50 customers were milling around. Heany pointed to one, a social worker named Karen, he said, a regular at the Stein Club for almost as long as it has existed, 21 years. Karen sat alone, sipping from a mug of beer as she leafed through a note pad. I don’t know how Heany recognized her. She was, for all intents, incognito, like a young Greta Garbo, dressed in a’ black silk blouse and prairie-length dress. Her hair was wrapped in a scarf, her eyes hidden behind wraparound sunglasses.

“She was a hippie,” Heany said, taking me over to meet her.

“I lived down here when this entire area was overrun with young people,” Karen said. “It was a good time to be young, those years. I learned so much about life. It was exciting. I think I knew it couldn’t last forever, my youth I mean. But I still sometimes wonder what happened down here, why everyone left.”

“A harder element moved in, Heany said. “I remember when it turned into a rough neighborhood. You couldn’t walk a block without -being propositioned for anything you could imagine, drugs, sex. Whatever you wanted to buy, it was for sale. When the hippies left, the Strip became a no-man’s-land. There was a lot of arson. Businesses that had been here for a decade moved out. I remember in 1974, walking down the street and in a three-block area there were only 11 shops open. It really scared me.”

“That’s the real question,” Karen said. “How did this area go from hippie community to combat zone to middle class — which is what it is becoming.”

Heany nodded agreement. “I wish I knew what happened during those hippie years. I lived here, but I’ll be damned if I know.”

The Hippies overran a neighborhood that was steeped in Atlanta lore and history. Full of old houses, it had grown up around Piedmont Park to become a showcase middle-class neighborhood. In the earliest days of the city, however, the neighborhood around what was to become the Strip — an area roughly bordered by the park on the east, 14th Street on the north. Spring Street on the west and 7th Street on the south — was called Tight Squeeze.

“In the 1870’s, it was well beyond the city,” according to historian Timothy Crimmins of Georgia State University. “Peachtree Road didn’t follow its present course back then, it followed the route of what is now Peachtree Place to 11th Street, so it was much narrower. It was, though, a main route of commerce into Atlanta, and so as you were going out from the city, you were tunneled in through this narrow neck of road. Shanties were erected alongside the route. “Late in the 1890’s the shanties were pushed out,” continued Crimmins. “As long as there was no demand for the land, the squatters who lived there had no problems, but with the development of streetcar transportation, the entire area came within the orbit of Atlanta, and at that point it became a more desirable place for affluent Atlantans to live.”

As the trolley moved north in the early 20th century, large Victorian homes were erected by the city’s wealthy elite, and in 1906, Ansley Park was developed north of 10th Street. Soon there was a demand for commercial services, and 10th and Peachtree became the intersection where they were provided. By the early 1920s drugstores, bakeries, bicycle and dress shops fined I0th Street.

During and after World War II, there was a lot of pressure for housing in the area, and many of the buildings were eventually zoned as multifamily residences. In the 1950’s, however, there was a wholesale northward exodus of residents. This effectively set the stage for the 1960’s, creating an area with relatively inexpensive housing around a commercial strip where the market had declined, leaving empty, low rent storefronts.

The counterculture had I its origins in San  Francisco at about the same time the civil rights movement peaked in the South. By the time the hippies appeared in Atlanta, the Strip was where the “life” was, in the words of many who lived there. Filmmaker Gary Moss, who later chronicled his experiences on the Strip in a movie entitled Summer of Low, remembered leaving the University of Georgia and moving to the area in 1967. “I knew something was happening, even if I didn’t know what it was,” he said. “I had friends who lived on 9th Street, and I’d visit them and see an entirely new attitude in how they talked and looked. I was fascinated, and found myself being drawn into the life. It was just very exciting to be down there. We had freedom, and to some extent we had drugs, mainly marijuana. It was a playful time, sad, of course, we were learning about love and sex.”

In 1967, the number, of hippies living in the neighborhood was still small, perhaps a few hundred. (By August 1969, according to a Community Council of Atlanta report, the number of hippies living in the 10th Street area was estimated at 3,000.) Yet they had great visibility, making themselves instantly recognizable by characteristics that seemed intended to stun — long hair, for example, and instead of conventional dress, fantasy garb as different and unique as could be found: old hats, long dresses and shawls. In a way, dress was a nonverbal dialect created by hippies as a way not only to recognize each other but to keep at bay the curious in straight society.

The new community took seed at the Mandoria, an art gallery owned by David Braden (“Mother David”) and Kathryn Palmer, a jeweler. In late 1966, Braden and Palmer moved their gallery into a two-story house at the corner of 14th and Peachtree streets, across from what is now Colony Square. In the basement of the house was a music club called the Catacombs (“A place for peace and creation,” read early ads). Above the Mandoria, Braden rented out beds to people coming into Atlanta, many of whom were runaways.

“There was a verbal network, and word got out that there was a place to stay at Mother David’s,” recalled Anna Belle Illien, who purchased the gallery from Braden and changed the name to Galerie Illien. “Beds were rented in shifts, there were so many kids. I heard there was once as many as 50 people upstairs at one time.”

Braden eventually landed in prison (serving a seven year sentence for marijuana sale, his arrest was generally regarded as the area’s first political bust), but the scene kept on growing. It was centered at 10th Street around new hip establishments like the Twelfth Gate (a folk-music club operated by a young minister, Bruce Donnelly), the Middle Earth, Grand Central Station, the Merry Go Round and Morning Glory Seed — Atlanta’s first “head shop.”

Along with the clubs, other expressions of the scene began springing up. One of the most important was The Great Speckled Bird, a weekly newspaper. Its first issue came out on March 15, 1968, and the paper rapidly became the voice of the community. About the same time. Dr. Joseph Hertell, a former national director of the American Red Cross, was teaching Sunday school at Rock Springs Presbyterian Church when he “noticed a good many of my students spending time at the Twelfth Gate cafe. My wife and I went down there, met Bruce Donnelly and saw that the club was spiritually oriented — he held services every Sunday It was a very warm and pleasant atmosphere.”

Dr. Hertell asked Donnelly if he could help in any way and the minister told him, “There is no place for sick kids to get help. When I have a sick youngster on my hands, I can’t get any help — not even from Grady.” That’s when Dr. Hertell and Donnelly opened a clinic in a back room of the Twelfth Gate (the clinic later moved to Juniper Street).

Music was everywhere back then. Nasty Lord John, a disc jockey at WBAD in Hapeville (Atlanta’s first true progressive radio station), was also a musician, a drummer in a band that played at a club called the Scene, and listeners followed him to the Strip. “His radio show turned me on,” said Darryl Rhoades, a longtime local musician. “I wanted to see him. When I was in high school, he was a topic of conversation. Music was a big reason to go to 10th Street.”

At the Scene, Twelfth Gate and the Catacombs, bands like the Bag, Hampton Grease Band and Dr. Espina’s Banana Boat Blues Band and Traveling Freak Show were big attractions. Rhoades himself played in a band called the Celestial Voluptuous Banana. Concerts in Piedmont Park were common, with local bands playing alongside The Allman Brothers, The Grateful Dead, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and Cream.

By the summer of 1969, young people from all over Georgia and the rest of the South were coming to Atlanta. Many of them joined communes, which were characterized by their informal living arrangements and the sharing of property. This eventually created problems, according to Mary Huffaker, a social worker in the community. “Every single commune I know anything about failed because they would accept anybody and everybody,” she said. “Obviously. you’d get freeloaders who were happy to sit back and watch everybody work except them. The fact is, communes couldn’t work if everyone didn’t pull his own weight — and the nature of human beings is that they don’t.”

(old French embassy on 14th)

Eventually the police became a major factor on the Strip. Tension had always existed between hippies and the police. Fulton County Assistant Police Chief Lewis Graham, then an Atlanta homicide investigator, recalled a “strong dislike of them on the force. The average police officer saw traditional values disappearing — kids with long hair, beards and their up-front attitudes. Most officers wouldn’t allow themselves to believe that many hippies were good kids with educations. They were simply classified as bums, identified by how they dressed, how they looked.”

Nonetheless, a kind of peace existed between hippies and the police for a while, and at least one officer was different — Ray Pate, who was assigned to community relations on the Strip. Pate was never given instructions on what to do or where to work. “I had no hours,” he recalled, “but I worked 9:00 p. m. to 5:00 a. m. in the park, at the clubs. I tried to identify with the youngsters. I wanted them to realize that cops are human, too, that they could depend on me if they needed help.”

The problem in the early days, according to Pate, “was mainly with shop owners who saw the values of their businesses depreciating. People were being driven to bankruptcy.” At times, pedestrian traffic in the area was so heavy that people walked in the streets. Tour buses included the Strip as a sideshow in their journey through Atlanta.

Some area store owners do not blame the hippies for their problems in the 1960’s. Mike Roberts of the Hard ware and Supply Company said, “In my opinion, it wasn’t the hippies who ran the area down. I think the area was already in decline by 1965, when shopping centers in the suburbs were built.”

By all accounts, the winter of 1969-1970 was a turning point in the history of the Strip. Pate remembered that “in late 1969, things took a nose dive. It was a cold winter. Everyone stayed indoors. The streets were relatively empty, and by spring it seemed almost like a small child had grown up and turned mean. Maybe the kids realized they had to survive somehow, find food — and soon. But it wasn’t the same and I couldn’t put my finger on why.”

Dr. Hertell also sensed a change in the neighborhood. “Disillusionment had already set in,” he said. “The love, the fraternity, the beauty and the warmth was souring.” Dr. Hertell and others believe that the increasing drug traffic up and down the Strip — and the change from marijuana to harder drugs like amphetamines and heroin — led to the community’s downfall.

With harder drugs on thy streets, the police cracked down on the community. Pate explained, “In 1968, we were flooded with crowds of exuberant, music-loving kids. We couldn’t do things the old law-and-order way with them •— the media would have killed us. But in 1969, with the criminal element moving in, well, those were our kind of people, so we flooded the area with helmets and nightsticks.” In 1970, Police Chief Herbert Jenkins declared, “I’m convinced 10th Street is no longer a hippie community. It’s just a stopping place for outlaws and criminals from all over the nation.”

The police raids were awesome, in a chilling kind of way. On weekends, police would arrive on the Strip after midnight in school buses. They would stream out of the vehicles in riot gear and move down the street in formation, stopping in front of each storefront while several went in and cleared the kids out with billy clubs.

One of the biggest events of this period occurred on the night of October 4, 1971 That was when a policeman was shot in Piedmont Park on “hit-up hill,” an area near the pavilion used by drug peddlers. A man who lived on 11th Street at the time remembered being awakened “by all the light and noise. I looked out the front door to see throngs of people screaming and running up the hill to Peachtree. Overhead, herding them like cattle, were helicopters with bright floodlights and loudspeakers blaring. The police entered every apartment on the park that night and turned them over.” (Soon after that incident, horse patrols were instituted by the city as a way to deal with policing the park.)

By then, the community was in chaos on all levels. Dr. Hertell’s clinic was treating more and more heroin addicts, and it eventually came under police surveillance as a result of its methadone program. “The police said I was responsible for more methadone being out on the streets than any drug pusher,” Dr. Hertell said. Its work with addicts also brought the clinic into contact with motorcycle gangs. “The bikers were power hungry,” said Dr. Hertell. “They came to me one day and said, ‘We want the clinic open tonight.’ I said I wouldn’t do it. Well, they took over because of their violent nature.” Mary Huffaker said that such incidents finally caused the clinic to close. “We didn’t know how to deal with violence.”

Along with hard drugs, the Strip was spawning an increasing number of pornographic bookstores, X-rated movie theaters and strip joints. Prostitution was on the rise. Gary Moss, who left the area for a few years, remembered coming back in 1972. “That’s when I realized the scene had grown dark and ugly,” he said. “I ran into an old friend with whom I had lived in a commune, and we Stopped and talked for a minute. She indicated to me that occasionally people came by and gave her money for sex. I sensed she was burned-out inside. She said she had had a vision in which trees burned down like match sticks.”

The Strip was literally burning down. A shop named Atlantis Rising had been firebombed, and The Great Speckled Bird house on 14th Street was destroyed in a fire. As early as July 1969 the Atlanta Fire Bureau reported 26 “significant” fires in the area causing $800,000 damage. At the time. Chief J. I. Gibson said it “looks like the work of an arsonist.” Indeed, arson grew rampant along the Strip. Houses were frequently burned as vengeance in bad drug deals. And a fire investigator said, “We hear that one small store owner paid well to bum up his unbreakable lease.” Many businesses, unable to get fire insurance, were forced to relocate.

Rumors persist to this day regarding the decline of the Strip during the early 1970’s. At the time, it was common knowledge that the Colony Square project and the planned MARTA station at 10th Street would change the face of the area. Many people in the community believed — and still do — that the Strip was intentionally allowed to deteriorate, thereby lowering land values, permitting real estate speculators to purchase plots at deflated prices before reselling them to developers at huge profits.

Many of these rumors center on former Mayor Sam Massell. He and other members of his family own land in the area, and Massell is familiar with the charges against him. “One rumor,” he said, “was that I was bringing the hippies into the area, importing them, in order to run down the values of the property, or that I had gotten options on lots, then allowed the property values to run down and buy in. Well, of course, if you had options on land, you’d have them at current prices, not run-down prices. Secondly, if you didn’t have the option, anyone could get the same option and buy it when land value decreased. And thirdly, if you did allow the land to run down, look at what it takes to build it back up.”

Unquestionably, land speculators in the area did make money. Some lots were sold in the early 1970’s, when land values were deflated, and a few years later they were resold at a profit to developers. However, no decisive relationship between the decline of the Strip and profits derived from it can be proved.

The real story behind the passing of the hippies from the Strip probably lies elsewhere, but nobody really has any clear-cut theories. Any discussion of the community by people close to it is, inevitably, suffused with a sense of wistful regret. As Dr. Hertell put it, “1967 and 1968 were beautiful. The kids were so filled with love, and it was so sad because what the hippies believed in was impossible. I knew it was impossible, and I felt like saying, life is not like this, life isn’t this way. They had a dream, and I’ve lived long enough to know that the dream wasn’t going to come true.”

But there was more behind the rise of the hippies than simply a dream. In their way, they mounted a strong protest against society. For many Americans, the Vietnam War represented a failure of the system, and the hippies were out to change it. As Charles A. Reich wrote in The Greening of America, an enormously influential book that articulated the hippie ethic, “There is a revolution coming. It will not be like ‘ revolutions of the past. It will originate with the individual and with culture, and it will change the political structure only as its final act It will not require violence to succeed, and it cannot be successfully resisted by violence. This is the revolution of the new generation.”

That sounds quaint and overblown today, but it was a potent message when it was first delivered. And across the country, it drew young people? pie to places like the Strip. They thought they were joining a revolution, but it’s my guess that in the long run they were just loose, on the run and lost. When I think honestly about the Strip, I remember that most of the people there were incredibly young. They were teenagers. So many of the girls were pregnant, and the boys seemed desperate. But they didn’t have any bona fide political convictions to back them up.

A friend of mine recalled an incident that pointed up the contradictions that haunted the Strip. “One day,” he said, “everybody on the Strip, went ga-ga over a car that was driving up Peachtree. It was a new Lincoln Continental, one with an arch in the back trunk hood for a spare tire. That would have been properly disdained in any truly revolutionary environment for good political reasons. On the Strip, the flower children rubbernecked and whistled.”

I-485 wants to consume Atlanta

Atlanta Time Machine collected a map showing the actual proposed routes  expressways planned on just the East side of Atlanta. Take a look and figure out if your neighborhood would still even exist.

Hear is what the historians now say about

The Great Speckled Bird Jan 7, 1974, Vol. 7 #1 pg. 10 

EPSON scanner imageI-485

The controversy that has been raging over Atlanta’s proposed downtown interstate freeway has been boiling hotter in the past few months, and while the Bird hesitates to make sweeping predictions, the chances for the construction of 1—485 are looking a little dimmer.

For those of you who have just entered the Atlanta scene, 1-485 is a federal interstate freeway that has been proposed for the east side of Atlanta. It would be built to relieve traffic on the downtown connector, or 1-75-85, and would run from near Broadview Plaza south through Morningside, Virginia Highlands, and Inman Park.

1-485 has been planned by the highway builders since the early 1960’s and has been a controversial road since the announcement of construction plans. Most of the opposition to the road stems from the fact that the proposed route runs through the Morningside and Lenox Park neighborhoods which are middle and upper income residential areas and which are very strong close-in neighborhoods. The other area that the road will effect is the Inman Park and Little Five Points neighborhoods, just to the south of Morningside. When the freeway was first announced, most of Inman Park and Little Five Points were strong working class neighborhoods with a portion of lower income transient families. The Bass Organization for Neighborhood Development (BOND) was formed initially to fight against the freeway. However, most of the BOND folks, lacking the power and influence which money brings, felt that about all they could do was push through certain changes in the freeway design which would lessen the impact of the road on their neighborhoods.

The State Highway Department came into the BOND area and cleared out around 600 homes and numerous businesses to make way for the road before most people knew what was happening. When the Morningside and Lenox Park folks saw that the State Highway Department was not joking about this freeway they began to mobilize with court suits and political pressure, to either get the road stopped completely or to insist on changes in the design which would lessen the impact on their neighborhoods.

At the same time that the Morningside-Lenox Park people were getting their act together for an all out fight against the freeway, a change was taking place in the BOND area. Rich folks were moving into Inman Park to restore the few fine old Victorian homes that had been missed by the Highway Department’s bulldozers. These people began to realize just how close this freeway would be coming to their backyards and also began to gear up to oppose the freeway and joined the old time residents of the BOND neighborhood in the fight, bringing with them money, planning expertise and political influence.

Thus, neighborhoods all along the route of 1-485 began to get together to present a united front against the freeway should now take a step back and look at why some people want 1-485 to be built and others do not. The main, up front, reason for planning 485 was to relieve traffic congestion on the downtown freeway. Who could possibly object to that?

However, things are not always as they seem on the surface. 1-485 is a crucial link in a whole series of urban toll roads that the State of Georgia has planned for the Atlanta area. Several years ago the General Assembly created a Georgia Toll Road Authority, with the power to sell construction bonds, build roads and charge tolls for their use in order to retire the construction bonds. This practice, of course, has been used extensively in other parts of the country, but in the past the state has felt that any road that would be a toll road would not generate enough traffic to retire the construction bonds.

Nonetheless, the newly created Toll Road Authority has been looking around for places to build its first toll roads and thought that Atlanta would be able to generate enough traffic for the roads to support themselves. Thus a network of toll roads has been planned for the Atlanta area: the Westside toll road, the Stone Mountain toll road, the Lakewood toll road, and the North Atlanta toll road. ( They got part of one- ed. )The important thing about all of these toll roads is that I-485 is the connecting link between most of the proposed toll roads. If the State of Georgia cannot build 1-485 then the whole toll road network becomes almost impossible to construct as planned. It becomes a meaningless jumble of unconnected road segments.

If the Georgia Department of Transportation is unable to construct I-485 then the newly created Toll road Authority will be hard pressed to justify its existence. And, of course, the highway planners and builders would like to keep their jobs.

It also appears that the Georgia Department of Transportation is concerned about keeping I-485 alive as a project because they will get more money from the federal government for highway construction each year that 1-485 is kept on the list of proposed freeways. The state is under no real obligation to construct 485 if it remains on their list, they just receive more money each year. So the state does have an interest in keeping the project alive, at least on paper.

The downtown boys, representing the central business district interests in the City of Atlanta, are also strongly pushing for the construction of 1-485. They are interested in routing through traffic around the downtown area, which 1-485 would do, so that people who do choose to drive downtown can do so without much hassle. But, also, the downtown boys are very interested in having this series of toll roads built in the Atlanta area. Somehow, people like these equate freeways and toll roads with progress and a healthy business community. However, in the past year or so the business community has had to take a closer look at their position on freeways and 1-485 in specific. They have taken a strong position, on paper at least, for encouraging close-in residential neighborhoods. Their concern is to attract more white middle and upper income families back into the city.

An obvious contradiction lies in the fact that 1-485 will be running through exactly the type of neighborhoods which the business community says that they would like to preserve and encourage. Even most people who support the construction of 485 will admit that these neighborhoods will not be very pleasant to live in once construction of the freeway is started. And opponents of the freeway say that 485 will effectively kill any residential viability that exists in the path of this freeway.

Opponents of the I-485 are objecting to it for several reasons. The first, which has already been mentioned, is that good residential neighborhoods will be destroyed by the construction of the freeway. Second is that MARTA should be fully utilized to provide a transportation system that is a real alternative to the automobile. If we are going to build a rapid transit system we do not need to continue to build additional roads for cars. Also with the energy crisis, either real or fake, we are going to have to reduce our consumption of fossil fuel over the long run and MARTA will help with that effort while another road will only encourage more gasoline consumption.

What is the status of 1-485, will it be constructed or will the idea by canned? It appears that the efforts of the anti-highway people are beginning to payoff.

Their first concrete effort to stop the freeway was in a court suit which asked for an injunction against any construction or additional acquisition of property until an environmental impact statement could be prepared. In July of 1970 an injunction was handed down which stopped construction only two weeks before the State Highway Department was to let the first construction contracts for I-485. The injunction said that no more work could be done on the road until the state prepared an environmental impact statement that was acceptable to the US Department of Transportation. The State Highway Department commissioned Griner and Associates to conduct this environmental study. Griner is the Maryland engineering firm that gained national publicity recently when it was revealed that the firm was involved in Agnew’s indiscretions while Governor of Maryland.

Griner conducted this environmental impact statement, but fortunately the statement was soundly rejected by the federal government last summer. The feds said that the statement did not give an adequate assessment of the construction of rapid transit on the transportation needs for Atlanta, that it did not study effectively the impact of related roads, specifically the proposed toll roads, and that it did not adequately look at alternatives to the road and other route alternatives closely enough.

In effect the federal government said that Georgia could not begin construction until some of these issues were looked at more closely. Meanwhile, several other things are going on that will effect the fate of 1-485.

Perhaps the most interesting thing is the role that the Atlanta Regional Commission is beginning to play in the fate of 1-485. The ARC is charged by Georgia law with planning responsibility within the Atlanta regional area. In the past they have been avid supporters of 1-485 and the road was included in the Atlanta Area Transportation study, which was supposed to be the last word on what transportation improvements would be made in the Atlanta region.

However, this fall the ARC apparently began to back away from its avid support of 485 to a wait-and-see attitude. The ARC omitted I-485 from a list of high-priority items which should be built. However, they say that this does not mean that they are not supporting the project anymore. A new regional transportation plan is being prepared by the planning staff of ARC and final word on their support or opposition will be whether they include the road in their updated transportation plan.

According to one of ARC’S transportation planners, during the process of preparing this plan they will be looking at some of the questions raised by the US Department of Transportation. This indicates that the Georgia DOT is in effect waiting for the ARC to take the lead in justifying the existence of 1-485 and subsequently the toll roads. This obviously places ARC in a pivotal role as far as 1-485 is concerned and also a very powerful one.

The Board of Aldermen have gone on record several times as opposing the construction of 1-485. Most recently they have passed a resolution which could set in motion the actual death of 1-485. In August the US Congress passed the 1973 Federal Highway Act which provides for the transfer of money that has been allocated to highways to local transit authorities. The law says, “Upon the joint request of a state governor and the local governments concerned, the (US Transportation) Secretary may withdraw his approval of an urban interstate, clearing the way for transfer of those funds to the local transit authority.”

The Board of Aldermen, two weeks ago requested that the $70 million of federal money that has been allocated for 1-485 be transferred to MARTA. The only real problem with this is that the governor of the State of Georgia has to also agree to the transfer of funds and apparently Governor Carter is not ready to do that. Carter, in response to the action of the Board of Aldermen said that the Aldermen were not the proper “responsible local officials” and said that the Atlanta Regional Commission is the proper group of local officials to make such a request.

Most observers feel that Carter’s position about ARC is wrong and would not stand if challenged. What will come of this is still unclear. However, the Board of Aldermen did set into motion an interesting action which apparently would be precedent setting and would, more importantly, spell the end of the 1-485 project.

Governor Carter has showed his colors in another way in-the past few months over 1-485 with his 1-485 opinion poll. Carter announced that he was going to commission a poll to find out what the people of the Atlanta area really feel about 1-485 and more freeways in general. He failed to announce that at the same time, and on the same poll, he was going to have many questions asked about the upcoming statewide races and about the success of his administration. The results of the poll were discounted even before, they were announced by many because of this practice of piggy-backing question areas on the poll. Also it became apparent that the questions on the poll were slanted in favor of 1-485.

Even with this biased type of poll taking the results were far from significant in favor of 1-485.

The establishment press in Atlanta loudly proclaimed that the poll showed that Atlantans want the construction of 485 by a two to one margin. But, actually the results were not that overwhelming. There are 38% who were in favor of constructing more expressways and 19% against. However, there were 43% who were undecided or who had no opinion.

It appears that no one is going to take the results of this poll very seriously because of the inconclusive results.

1-485 also became an issue in the recent City elections. It was generally understood that if a candidate took a strong stand in favor of constructing 1-485, it would mean certain political death. The important fact is that the new City Council is definitely more anti-485 than the old Board of Aldermen was. It appears that the new City Council will put up even more opposition to the proposed 1-485. Maynard Jackson also ran on a strong platform against 1-485. It will be interesting to watch how these people vote when it actually comes down to opposing freeways.

So what will be the future of I-485? It appears that the court injunction will be in effect against the construction at least until the Atlanta Regional Commission can finish its update of the Atlanta Regional Plan which will be near the end of 1974. It is also necessary that either ARC or the Georgia Department of Transportation satisfy the objections of the federal government before any construction can begin.

One of the main issues involved throughout the whole controversy over this freeway is not the pros and cons of transportation planning, but whether or not the people in the areas directly affected by this freeway have any input into the fate of their neighborhoods. Highway proponents say that the highway should be built because it would benefit the region as a whole, and that if certain areas or people are affected adversely, this is the unfortunate price that has to be paid for the common good. Opponents of the highways, on the other hand, are saying that some prices are too high to pay for the common good. More specifically, this particular highway, 1-485, is simply not needed enough in the region as a whole to pay the price. Whether or not the highway finally goes through, this is the first time in Atlanta that plain, ordinary people have made such an impact on the political mood within the city or such an impact on the institutional bureaucracy of Atlanta.

—Krista

Here is what the historians now say about the near secret plans.

Strip news

In December the Laundromat opened on Peachtree near Tenth. By this time half a dozen hip stores had opened along the strip. Their merchandise was commercially manufactured, few community people worked in them, and the profits went to the owners. The Laundromat opened lo provide a non-profit outlet for community-produced goods. About twenty people opened the Laundromat as a cooperative in which all decisions would be made together. Community residents could sell their wares through the Laundromat with only a 10% charge for overhead.

Over the winter the Midtown. Alliance held weekly meetings at the 12th Gate. Other community projects developed out of the Alliance. Churches pledged money for a “Youth hostel” to provide temporary housing for freaks coming into town. The money became available in January but the churches have been unable to locate a real estate man or owner who will rent to them. A Catholic monk and a Georgia State student got together to develop a runaway program, The Bridge, to help young runaways work out some arrangements with their parents. In June they found a building but the city condemned it so they are now operating out of the community center. Hip Job Coop was opened on Tenth Street to help kids find jobs and provide an outlet for community goods. Jobs are hard to find, though. and although Hip Job has survived it hasn’t been able to get the store together enough to provide a real alternative to the straight hip merchants.

On the strip Atlantis reopened and two short order food establishments, Chili Dog Charlie’s and Tom Jones Fish&Chips, provided a focus for the street. Early in the Spring kids gathered along Peachtree to claim the street.

By the time Atlanta had elected a “liberal” mayor, Sam Massell. In February Massell had agreed to meet with the Midtown Alliance to work out ways of avoiding hassles in the coming Summer. He seemed to be committed to a different approach from the police enforcement policy  of his predecessor. Bu then city employees went on strike and Massell “friend of the poor” used everything in the book to screw the strikers. A number of hip community residents participated in activities during the strike and they began to wonder what kind of liberal Massell was.

Early   in the Spring things picked up on the strip. Large crowds gathered on Peachtree. But there were intimations of violence against freaks by outsiders. Girls being raped on side streets. The police would do nothing. The Alliance formed a community patrol to provide some protection. In late May, Chili Dog Charlie’s was bombed.

During May a young music promoter had planned a “Peace Festival” to be held the first weekend in June, was planned as a way for the community to come together to begin a summer of peace – a memorial service to those killed at Kent State, Jackson State, and Augusta. As the weekend approached the city refused to issue a permit for the park. Mayor Massell was going to make a policy statement about the “hippie problem”. Later it turned out that he feared riots from what he said he didn’t want two going on at once – one on the strip and one in the park.

 

He almost did have a riot. Because of the violence on the Strip, the rapes and attacks, most people at the time did not want police protection. But Massell after a rap about protecting people’s rights, announced that he was sending in 64 cops. And that night, he did. On the Strip kids freaked out and fled to the park for a community meeting. At the meeting I expected the same old phony hassles of “peace” freak vs. “violence” freaks, but the community was together. Everyone wanted the Strip back and three to four hundred marched back  to the strip to reclaim it.

At first the cops made few arrests, but that soon changed. For the third summer in a row, kids were arrested for loitering, jaywalking, etc. Bongo was arrested taking a cop’s badge number. He was convicted by the same judge Jones who had been so candid in 1968.

Early one Sunday  morning, after the Cosmic Carnival, police raided Fish&Chips and arrested 21 for loitering, including the manager and assistant manager.

 

This weekend  a kid was sitting on the sidewalk about a foot inside the property line of the Metro skinflick. The owner, who was president  of the Tenth Street Businessman’s Association, told him to move. He moved off the property line. A cop came up and said,” do you want him arrested?” The owner said yes. The kid was taken inside the theater and beaten when he protested his arrest. A crowd gathered in front of the theater. The glass on one of the doors was pushed  or kicked in. The owner came outside with a pistol and shot in the direction of one group of kids.

So there it is, the same   old story of harassment from the   city, police. Straight businessmen. But things are changing on the strip. Every time the cops begin to bust, the odds are that the community  will protest the arrest. During  one bust kids were freed from the cop car. In others bottles have been thrown. The  community is not going to tolerate police harassment.

Other things are changing too. The community is uptight about all the heroin on the Strip.  Kids have seen how smack destroys hip communities. This week a smack dealer was physically told  to stay out of the community. The Community Center is now located at 1013 Peachtree. It is working with lawyers who will represent kids in harassment arrests. The Clinic continues , helping kids with regular medical problems or kids who have bad trips  or want to try to get off smack. The twelfth Gate has become more of a community institution – the one place where community bands can play and even make a little bread. The Laundromat survives, supporting around 200 community craftmakers.

Many of the community’s struggles have been successful. Community institutions have been developed. The park is ours, although we still may have to fight to continue to have music there. The street is ours too, despite the constant fight to protect it. Most importantly the community is coming together in a real way – not just during a crisis as in the past. The future will be a struggle, but if we stay together we can make it. It really is just about that simple.

-gene guerrero jr.

strange workday at Atlantis Rising

The Hip Job service sent me to work with the crew renovating the grocery store into Atlantis Rising. It was the most unique and friendly place. Anyone felt welcomed to hang out under the inside tree in the gallery. There was an old wino, Jacob, who had been given acid which had dried him out. Now he was a philosopher mostly ex-drunk, still-bum expert on living on the fringes. He stood ready to share his advice and opinions with anyone who showed the slightest interest.  My directions were to listen to Jacob and do what he said until lunch, but then I was to take charge if Jacob was intoxicated and he would still follow directions very well. On the corner of 10th and Peachtree going East past the liquor store was a stereotypical Chinese laundry. The man who owned and operated it was called Mr. Chin. He  still dressed in Chinese robes and knew little English. What English he did know was almost impossible to understand because of his accent. He as known for his excellent cleaning and had over the years of hard work put three kids through college. They were all middle-class now and begged him to leave the area now Hippies had over run it. Mr. Chin liked Hippies. They were polite and did not mistreat or make fun of him.

At the end of each month Mr. Chin brought all the clothes that had been unclaimed over a month at his shop, to the free store the Diggers ran inside Atlantis Rising. Each afternoon he came to sip tea under the inside tree and play chess with speed freaks. His opponents mumbled away ninety to nothing. Mr. Chin talked excitedly and emotionally in Chinese and English, occasionally waving his hands. Neither opponent understood anything the other said, but they would at times look at the other and nod with deep understanding. I watched many games and could never discern any rules. Mr. Chin or his speed-freak opponent would pick up a piece and move it in any direction for any number of jumps. Sometimes checkers were added. This might be followed by excited talk and a piece being removed from or placed back upon the table. The same player might take several turns in a row. Sometimes disputes arose and  incomprehensible arguments ensued. Weirdly, babbling back and forth always seemed to bring them to mutual satisfaction and the game continued. At some point they  seemed to just as incomprehensibly decide one of them had won. They would shake, Mr. Chin would bow deeply. And each went their separate ways.

      Watching these wonderland games was the most intriguing thing of an already strange workday at Atlantis Rising.

– mystere2

Atlantis Rising

A former A&P grocery store on Peachtree between 10th and 11th was transformed into Atlantis Rising, a hip emporium of small shops and a hang out area inside and a large parking lot behind.

Markets respond to demands. That’s good capitalistic economics. Ten years ago, the Peachtree-14th  Street area had the usual shops – grocery stores, a delicatessen or two, couple of ladies’ dress shops, hardware stores, pharmacy, etc. There were always a couple of arts stores, too- small galleries, frame shops, paintings –you know, because of the art school and that crowd. A little weird, that bunch, but didn’t bother the neighbors much.

That was before 1964. That was before Haight-Ashbury. That was before the East Village. That was before “hippie” meant anything but fat. Then there was summer 1965? 1966? 1967. There was 12th gate. There was Grand Central Station. There was Catacombs. Hippies????! In Atlanta?????? Yeah.

And a community was born. Beauty, love, freedom, alternative life style.; the street people.

Markets respond to community. Last year, Middle Earth was born and later and English Street begins. There was the short-lived Morning Glory Seed sacrificed, martyred during the summer ’67 repression. As Middle Earth, Expansion, etc. struggled to survive, downtown put over a pseudo-masquerade and came uptown in the form of the Merry-Go-Round. Asterisk was born downtown, moved uptown this summer.

They dream free exchange. The reality? $$$$$$$$

Danny Cochran is co-owner of Atlantis Rising. Danny Cochran knew the Peachtree 14th Street area ten years ago. He grew up here. Danny Cochran knows the world of the marketplace. He ran a swimming pool company , a tavern, was into mortgages, insurance.

Chuck Monroe knows street people. The family. The needs for survival. Chuck Monroe is co-owner of Atlantis Rising.  He approached Cochran, others, talked about a place relevant to the community, evolution of an idea.

Business Reality: Cochran and Morgan pay $400 per per month rent. Shop owners will give up 10% of their take to Cochran and Morgan. How decision s concerning Atlantis Rising will be made has not been decided yet. Atlantis Rising is evolving. One shop owner states, “We’ll have equal say, we can make sure of that.” Each shop has an open-ended lease with Atlantis Rising (Cochran and Morgan) and the “management” has made numerous business loans to get shops started with low rate of interest, cost, rate, margin. The market place.

The scene: Dogs, children, chatter, congregating, color, smells, sweat, beckoning, barter, bargain, money. The market place. Atlantis Rising. “Hey man, didja see those new books on palm-reading? Dig it, we could sell all the books we can get. “Lookit these hand made. Just gottem in. Groovy, man.” “Watch my shop for a second willya? Jeez its hot in here.”

Stock, supplies, prices, Sales receipts, orders, hours, bail, lease, take, percentage, profit, money. The new market place. Atlantis Rising.

The vision. More than a market place. More than exchange of goods and cash. Hope for a meeting place in there – the tea room with its tree invites gathering, human exchange. Atlantis Rising is a business. Yes. But it is hope in the prospect of encouraging creative energy for the booths. It is a hope if a free store can exist beside shops which sell for survival. It is a hope if it continues to be the energy and spirit of a community striving to be free, if profit remains secondary to people.

– maude from The Great Speckled Bird

Tight Squeeze aka The Strip

tightsqueezeIn 1962 The area was hailed as
“Atlanta’s own Greenwich Village”
Read it here.

Thanks to High School student Trevor Alexander for researching Tight Squeeze, as the area was first called..

Peachtree Street near 10th Street has long attracted diverse travelers, even before it was Peachtree. There was a path following the ridge between Creek settlements at Suwanee and Standing Peachtree on the Chattahoochee.  About 1813 local men  upgraded the path into more of a wide trail. With this completed, Lieutenant George Gilmer left Fort Daniel,  Hog Mountain in present-day Gwinnett County, traveled south on Peachtree Road and completed Fort Peachtree [Gilmer] on a small knob overlooking the Chattahoochee. Now the trail was first known as  Peachtree Road.

At the time the fort was built this was the western edge of America’s frontier and not a part of the state of Georgia. The Creek ceded the land in 1821. In 1837 Western and Atlantic Railroad approved the location of the southern terminus of the railroad just south of Fort Peachtree on the Peachtree Road. Late in 1847, Atlanta, defined as extending 1 mile from that Terminus, was incorporated.

The Civil War touched the area directly. The Great Locomotive Race ended for Andrews and some of his raiders when they were hung at what is 3rd and Juniper.

During the Battle of Peachtree Creek on July 20, 1864, both sides wanted to take the high ground, Peachtree Ridge, which Peachtree follows. Confederate troops fell back as far down Peachtree Road as the intersection at Ponce de Leon Avenue, where the Fox Theatre now stands.  Union troops got about as far south as the area between Tenth and Eleventh Streets.  Visualize that the next time you ride through the area.

Between 1865 and 1867 as the Southern states tried to recover from Civil War, Atlanta arose as the rapidly expanding new economic center of the Southeast. This attracted relatively large Jewish and black populations accentuated with people from virtually every state and many foreign countries, creating  a  more cosmopolitan city than any other in Georgia.

According to Franklin Garrett’s three-volume history of Atlanta: Atlanta and Environs, back in 1867 Peachtree, narrow, crooked and bordered by heavy woods, jogged sharply westward at the present Peachtree Place and followed what is now Crescent Avenue until returning to its present course at  about 11th Street. It was between the town, which by then had inched north to around 2nd street,  and the wagon yard around the present 14th Street, at the bend in Peachtree which is now 10th Street, that Tight Squeeze popped up after the war. It was a bunch of shanties, together with a black smith’s shop and several small wooden stores – beside a 30 foot deep ravine.

The ravine was thick with brush after the Civil War. It was a classic postwar period; desperate times. The hungry, the homeless, the wounded, the hopeless filled the city streets. The ravine became a rest stop to both freedmen  and displaced Confederate veterans, some left morphine addicts.  Just north of the ravine where Peachtree intersected a country road that’s now 14th Street, was the wagon yard, where freight was unloaded for the merchants further south in downtown Atlanta.

Merchants en route to the wagon yard on 14th with their pockets full of the “cash on the barrel-head” demanded by the freight companies, or merchants returning with wagons loaded with goods, slowed to skirt the ravine at today’s 10th Street.   In the days before Flagship Merchant Services as a traveler slowed, it was the practice of residents of the ravine or real highwaymen to attack and grab or rob anything they could. It was said that it “took a mighty tight squeeze to get  through with one’s life.” So the area acquired the name Tight Squeeze. Way outside of Atlanta at Tight Squeeze, desperation inspired rowdyism and a good deal of lewd vagrancy.

You can still locate Tight Squeeze today.  Drive along Peachtree between 10th and 11th, notice that midway in the block the street is depressed. Where it is depressed was the lip of the gully. The lip was filled in for the street in 1887 when old Peachtree Road was straightened. If you look to the east, you’ll see that old hollow, that’s partly a paved parking lot now. The hollow goes all the way down to Piedmont. That was Tight Squeeze.

Many victims of Tight Squeeze did not make it through with their lives. John Piaster, a Confederate veteran, after selling a load of wood in Atlanta, was fatally knocked in the head there on Feb. 22, 1867. His attackers were not apprehended. Another victim, Jerome Cheshire, sustained life-long injury in a similar attack. Now a prominent citizen had been murdered and there was an outcry. The Fulton County Grand Jury, alarmed by the attacks, urged that a force of “sober, steady and energetic Secret Detectives” be set up to patrol Tight Squeeze and other approaches to Atlanta to protect travelers.  Much as they set up the Pig Pen on Peachtree in the early 1970s.

Between 1870 and the 1890’s, other than postwar rebuilding projects, Tight Squeeze became the first urban renewal project in Atlanta. The area gradually improved as the suburbs of Atlanta crept north on Peachtree. Developers now wished to sell houses in the area, so it needed an image make-over. By 1872 it was renamed “Blooming Hill”. A man known only as Spiker, a citizen of Blooming Hill, wrote the local paper in 1872 that Blooming Hill is a “considerable little town,. . . with several fine dwellings, two grocery stores and another building”.

Just north of the city limits, then still around 6th Street, a group of rich Atlantans with an interest in horses had formed the Gentlemen’s Driving Club on 189.43 acres northeast of Blooming Hill. They subsequently formed the Piedmont Exposition Co. to hold a large 1887 Exposition on the club acreage, newly named Piedmont Park.

By then the residential area of Atlanta had reached Bleckley Road, now 10th Street.  In preparation for the Piedmont Exposition, Fulton County filled in part of the ravine and straightened Peachtree to its present course, leaving the old course as a back street.  The old Peachtree which had curved  around Tight Squeeze was renamed Crescent Avenue.

The success of this fair prompted the Piedmont Exposition Co. to buy most of the acreage which was to become Piedmont Park from the Gentlemen’s Driving Club. Several more fairs were held on the land until plans began for the major 1895 Cotton States and International Exposition. There were exhibits by six states and special buildings featuring the accomplishments of women and blacks. On opening day, September 18, military bands played, followed by speeches from political, business, and other leaders, including the prominent African American educator Booker T. Washington. In a speech that came to be known as the “Atlanta Compromise” speech.

The midway was at 10th Street and Piedmont.

In 1894, the owners of the park offered to sell the land to the city of Atlanta for $165,000.00, but Mayor John Goodwin refused. The park, therefore, remained in private hands for ten more years outside Atlanta city limits and taxes. Meanwhile the land between the park and the central business district began to grow as a residential area, undoubtedly aided by the 1900 extension of streetcar lines to Fourteenth Street along both the major traffic arteries of Peachtree and Piedmont. This encouraged development along the northern blocks of both roads. During this time, the park was the site of major and minor recreational activities and a magnet for growth. State fairs were held in Piedmont Park and celebrations on July 4th and Labor Day. Atlanta was always more progressive than the surrounding areas. The Piedmont Exposition Co.  opened a special section for African-Americans including a “comfort station.” At this time, most city parks were much more strictly segregated.

In 1903 George Washington Collier died and his undeveloped land, 202 acres west of the park and north of the city, was sold and subdivided in 1904. The main developer was Edwin Ansley, who created the Ansley Park subdivision along guidelines set by Frederick Law Olmsted. Thus the streets were a curving maze with large open spaces or “mini-parks.”

The other major event of 1904 was the renewed offer by the Piedmont Exposition Co. to sell Piedmont Park to the city — this time for $160,000. Mayor Evan Howell favored the purchase, but only if annexation included those developed areas adjacent to the park. This would add approximately $35,000.00-$40,000.00 in tax revenues annually and provide justification for the park’s purchase price. In the end, Atlanta paid $98,000.00 and acquired an improved tract of land, complete with roads, sewers and drains, water facilities, fair buildings, and a baseball field. In 1904 Atlanta’s city limits were extended from Sixth Street all the way to 15th Street.

“It’s a shame what happened to this part of Atlanta; almost everything I knew is gone,” says Dr. Bernard Wolff as he peers down Peachtree Place, his childhood stomping ground. “I was born right under there in 1909,” Wolff says, pointing to modern slabs of the Southern Bell switching office, next to the Midtown MARTA Station. The site used to be occupied by the Wolff family’s seven-bedroom Dutch colonial house, until he sold it to AT&T in 1962. All around were the mansions and maples of Blooming Hill. “Look at that big magnolia tree beside the telephone building. I’ll be darned; it’s still there.”

Wolff recalls his neighborhood as full of trees, mansions and children. “Tenth Street School, which is long gone, was the best grammar school in Atlanta. Ask Franklin Garrett, he was in the class ahead of me.” The Wolff family kept a cow in a nearby pasture. “My father, also a doctor, always complained the milk was bad because Sherman infested the grass with daisies.” Wolff played baseball in a field north of 979 Crescent Ave, The Windsor House, later known as “The Dump.” The house was built as a single-family residence in 1899. In 1907 the original family moved to Druid Hills. Years later the house was divided into the Crescent Apartments.

Urban Atlanta continued its northward movement. In 1911 the Georgian Terrace Hotel at Peachtree and Ponce had its grand opening. It immediately became known as one of the finest hotels in the Southeast.

In 1913 on Peachtree Street the homes and mansions of the wealthy were still prevalent. Ansley Park, northwest of Eleventh Street, was the new suburb for the city’s elite. Apartment houses proliferated in the areas between.

Yet eleventh Street was only developed from Peachtree to Piedmont and that was paved only with rubble. Although sewerage went all the way to the park, water ran only to Piedmont Avenue as late as 1918. Perhaps due to this lack of development and services, the section of Eleventh Street from Piedmont Avenue to the park became the site not for luxury apartments but the decidedly middle class Piedmont Park Apartments. These were designed by one of Georgia’s first woman  architects, Leila Ross Wilburn.

In 1924 the new governors’ mansion is opened at 205 Prado in Ansley Park cementing its place as a leading address for Atlanta’s elite. A new clientele  for the area merchants emerged.

The secret of Tenth Street’s early success was the independent “quality minded merchant.” The area became famous for the place where you could get the best of everything in what had become a unique “village” type atmosphere. “Remond’s” French Restaurant or the King Hardware Store that carried most everything; Knights and Baldwin’s purveyed the finest in produce, and Mr. Reed delivered tons of the finest meats to Tenth Street’s prize clientele Roxy Delicatessen was Atlanta’s original “Spaghetti House” and the greatest sandwich in town was their bill of fare. Bennie Kaplan and Davis Ajouelo were fine craftsmen making repaired shoes good as new. There were many more fine merchants—too numerous to mention—during Tenth Street’s “Golden Era.” During that time Tenth Street was the place to eat, live and shop for Atlanta’s elite, from the Governor’s family of the day to the wealthy dowagers complete with chauffeur driven limousines. In this period, people from Paces Ferry, Garden Hills and Morningside enjoyed the area.

Margaret Mitchell parent’s home was near the village around Tenth Street, the nicest shopping area in Atlanta. Everybody walking or hauling their groceries home in their arms or those little carts. The stores were busy and interesting, and the streets were fragrant with bakery smells from King Cole bake shop and rich delicatessen aromas from the old Roxy. It was called  Atlanta’s Greenwich Village.

“Tenth Street was a lady, a good-looking, viable retail center sort of like Lenox Square today,” recalled Franklin Garrett. “There seemed to be at least two of everything. Bank  branches, hardware stores, 10-cent stores, butchers, bakers, florists, dress shops. Fruits and vegetables were displayed outside, at that grocery stores, which were individually owned, while inside, mature clerks with pads waited on the matrons, charged their orders and had them delivered. The Hemlock telephone exchange, a fine, cream brick building erected in 1916, is now a U.S. military processing station. The Roxy Delicatessen had the best sandwiches in Atlanta. The Universal Garage was well patronized, but it was converted to the Hideaway, a Dixieland jazz club. The Tenth Street Theater was pulled down when they widened 10th west of Peachtree.”

Grown-up Margaret Mitchell wrote for the The Atlanta Journal Sunday magazine,  Her book, Gone With the Wind, would not be published until 1936. Located in what was then Atlanta’s largest business district outside of downtown, close to trolley lines, and walking distance from her parents’ house, the Crescent Apartments was home to Margaret Mitchell and John Marsh when they married in July 1925.

The 1920s were unstable financial times and had an effect upon the area. Crescent Apartments’ owner became over-extended, and the building was sold at auction in 1926. The next owner, too, was driven to bankruptcy when the stock market crashed in 1929. Maintenance declined, contributing to Mitchell’s characterization of their apartment as “the Dump.” By the fall of 1931, there were only two occupied apartments in the building, one of which belonged to the Marshes, but they, too, moved to a larger apartment a few blocks away in the spring of 1932.

In 1926 Mrs. H.M. High donates her home to Atlanta on the condition it become an art museum which opened in October. This would make the area a point of focus for the artistic, a trend that began when the artisans who had created and performed at the Cotton States Exposition wished to live as near to their work in the  Park as possible.

In 1929 The Fox Theatre, a place of the performing arts and the motion picture, opens. Vaudeville on Peachtree.

“My first knowledge of the Tenth Street area came in September of 1937,” says Jack Hazan. “My father opened a business there, and I candidly felt that he might have a rough time making it out there in the ‘country’.  He made it, and we were in that same store until November 1970. From the four or five stores located in the Tenth Street Shopping District in 1937, the area grew to be Atlanta’s first major shopping center away from the Central District; at one stage during the ’40’s the Tenth Street Merchants Association boasted a membership of close to 100 wholesale and retail business outlets.”

From 1946 to the early 1960’s, the area continued as a prime location to live or shop. A large percentage of Atlanta’s female support staff, secretarial, clerical, and medical, lived in apartment buildings near the Peachtree and Piedmont trolley lines which gave easy access to downtown. They called it the 10th Street  Business Section, and—“taken together with 13th, 14th and 15th streets immediately to the north—it’s as near as Atlanta comes to having its very own Greenwich  Village, Soho, Chelsea, Left Bank, or whatever other big cities call the collective digs of their avant-garde citizenry”.

The city’s high schools ended their gender segregation in 1947. Tech High and Boys High combined to became still active coed Grady High,  while Girls High became coed Roosevelt High, now The Roosevelt apartments.

Modern new shopping centers and parking took their toll. The  10th Street area began a decline in August 1959 when Lenox Square mall opened with 47 shops. The sophisticated aura of the new shopping area farther North on Peachtree began to sap customers from the areas between and beyond. The handwriting was on the wall for the charming Village of Tenth Street, Georgia. Vacancies began to appear.

60sThe clarion of events to come was a several page  announcement in 1964 that a shopping center called “Ansley Mall” with plenty of customer parking  and modern stores of all types would soon be  built, and would open a scant couple of miles from 10th at the gateway to one of its “mainstays,” the Morningside Community. This proved to be a crucial blow to the underdeveloped area in the center of downtown Atlanta, the old commercial district on Peachtree Street between 8th and 14th. Merchants concurred that business volume dropped a good 20 to 30 percent when Ansley Mall opened. The shopkeepers had made a feeble, but futile attempt to offset this by operating a parking lot in what remained of the ravine in the rear of some shops; it helped some, but it was not enough. The downward trend continued. Next came the removal of parking meters and an almost complete ban of “on street parking” in the area. As if this were not enough, Tenth Street, Piedmont and Fourteenth Street were made “One Way.” This sure helped to move traffic! —away from and around the Tenth Street district.

Along Juniper, 11th, 12th,  13th and 14th streets, modern apartments blend with old homes converted to boarding houses or apartments which have served, and are serving, generations of Atlantans. If one were a sociologist, he likely would find that young high school and college graduates, during the 60s and 70s, coming to Atlanta to seek their fortunes gravitated naturally to the 10th Street section due to its artistic aura, its reasonable rents, convenience of transportation and shopping facilities. For those not yet ready or willing to accept a sentence to staid suburbia and the eternal lawn-mowing chore, the 10th Street section is a welcome means of escape. The 10th Street section was a vital, throbbing, essential part of Atlanta—culturally and otherwise.

Unfortunately the Georgia surrounding Atlanta was much less enlightened. Lester Maddox, wielding gun and ax handle, chased blacks from his Pickrick restaurant on Northside Drive near Georgia Tech in early July 1964. The following month, Maddox closes the restaurant after being ordered to desegregate under the U.S. Supreme Court decision upholding non-discrimination in public accommodations. Maddox then started a petition campaign for mayor, but was easily trounced by Mayor Hartsfield who was reelected to a sixth term.(Maddox in front of Grady High demonstrating his ability to lead Georgia into the future.)

Maddox decided his constituency was outside cosmopolitan Atlanta, so in 1966 he ran for governor. Although Bo Callaway, one of the first Republican members of the United States House of Representatives elected from Georgia since Reconstruction, won a plurality, he lacked a majority and the Legislature picked Lester Maddox as governor.

The new Governor seemed at odds with the city. Atlanta is a metropolitan city. It had always been in the forefront of civil rights and progressive action for a southern city, as well as any in the country. It had a history of being a political anomaly. Peachtree Street was more than a romantic connotation. Atlanta is a symbol of everything Maddox was not. Spiritually Atlanta was more akin to San Francisco and New York than it was to Birmingham, Alabama. Another point was that by the 1970s San Francisco and New York had become more the land of the “put on” and the “putdown” than the real thing.  But in Atlanta there was a whole new generation of hippies, Southern youngsters bearing small resemblance, except by name, with the hippies of fun and frolic who occasionally paraded nude through the streets of the San Francisco. In Lester Maddox Georgia, it could be dangerous to be too flamboyant around the wrong people. Keep that freak flag furled till you reach 10th Street and Peachtree or  Fourteenth.

The new Governor’s Mansion on West Paces Ferry Road opened in 1967, with Lester Maddox as its first occupant. West Paces Ferry Road replaced The Prado as the seat of culture. Around the park area even more large houses, and even embassies on 14th Street, become available to rent. Some are rented informally or communally and further subdivided. People rented a room to their friends and rents became even cheaper. Some of these homes served as salons for the free discussion of arts and ideas. These small groups of bohemians began to reach a critical mass and began to be aware of each other and interact.

When the hip thing first started, the old Atlanta neighborhood of Tight Squeeze or Blooming Hill, and environs, was a congregating place for hips idling on the corner. The scene was called the Strip by hip inhabitants as self-deprecating humor that the hip part of town was still small town, small time. The original hips created the Strip — intentionally or unintentionally — as a meeting place for sharing their culture, but it gradually expanded beyond their needs, and beyond their control. As more people of different stripes were attracted to the area, they added their own characteristics to the basic ones, causing the mutations which eventually drove out the early community members.

The next era was a hectic and tempestuous time in the area. Down from Fourteenth Street, out of deference to more progress , the Colony Square Project, came the Bohemian, hippy, flower children. Colorful boutiques sprang into being, and the vacant stores were filled with a new breed of merchant that cottoned to the urges of the new generation. There was sporadic violence as the streets teemed with people, and the phrase, “Wall-to-wall people” applied very well to what took place at what was now called “The Strip.”

Chances are if the hippies had come to Atlanta with money in their jeans, the reaction might not have been all that violent. The one great equalizer, above and beyond all else, is the economic reality of life. Former Congressman Charles Weltner, whose liberal point of view stood out like the Southern Cross, at the time commented sardonically, “There just, ain’t no percentage in hippies if you’re a businessman.”

March 8, 1969 Underground Atlanta opened as Atlanta’s Bourbon Street, the all-hours fun location. Many of the hip community, especially musicians, welcomed this as a dependable source of income.   Civil Rights and white flight shifted the sociology of Atlanta. The establishment in  Atlanta officially shifted in 1969 when Sam Massell becomes the first the Jewish Mayor of Atlanta with Maynard Jackson, a Black, was vice mayor. That year Black aldermen increased from one to five, and Benjamin Mays, mentor to Martin Luther King, was elected to the Board of Education.

The hippies had made an incursion into the city and the neighborhood. They opened their own stores only to have them burned and looted. Time magazine reported the first bombing of a leather craft store owned by Susie and Ron Jarvis. As Time reported it, “When Ron complained to police (there were 27 bullet holes in the front of their store), he was arrested for shooting back. Says Ron bitterly: ‘We’ve got a new n-word in our society, and the way to tell him is by his hair and his beard.'”

In 1970, the flowering of the hip area reached full bloom. By June 1971 it is a several block stage show, played free of charge to a drive by audience almost nightly with extremes every weekend.

It is un-choreographed and undirected, the cast changes every night and none of the performer’s is given any lines to read.

Yet for more than two years it remained near the top of the entertainment list for Atlanta residents and their guests. When visitors came to the city, someone was sure to take them, or at least recommend that they go, to “The Strip.”

Like some of the other less conventional forms of entertainment in Atlanta, it received constant attention from the city’s law enforcement agencies. So much attention, in fact, that the police become regular members of the cast, taking on roles as vital to the show as those of the longhairs in the sometimes comic, sometimes tragic drama played there nightly.

But, strangely enough, most of the people responsible for this highly successful, long running show were no longer part of it. Many say they no longer enjoyed the performance and ceased to go on or near the stage. “Too many hassles!”

These young men and women, who through their searching for new horizons developed the characterizations and costuming for the show, now described the scene they left as “sick,” “dying,” having “bad vibrations” and being “nothing but a wholesale drug market.”

Law officers helped to make it unpleasant. The hippies were arrested for everything from breaking municipal jaywalking laws to reciting incantations of the devil. Raids were held with Gestapo like precision on homes where there was a suspicion of drugs. Furniture, possessions and walls were unapologetically smashed in some “searches”. They occurred with such frequency that calls and cries of harassment were heard from the once quiescent residents of an otherwise vital metropolis. Hippies were sprayed with Mace, whose use was then not generally approved.

As far back as 1969, a rock concert was proceeding at a relatively peaceful level when a cop, reacting to some thing less than a kind remark drew his service revolver. The wife of a professor at one of the nearby colleges tried to calm him. She was clubbed for her troubles, taken to a hospital in handcuffs and had six stitches in her head for her efforts. The war had begun!

Police began to stop strollers in the parks, using more force and indiscretion than any ‘stop and frisk’ law would permit. Piedmont Park which had changed from a native paradise to a homosexual hangout, was the focal point of picture taking by police who wanted to build a mug file of the new groovers. Remember homosexuality was still illegal in Georgia then.

The Police did not harass everyone coming in the area. The police had a particular fascination for ignoring the clean-shaven bands of vigilantes who had taken it upon themselves to beat up the out-of-towners. These ‘skinheads’ went after the hippies with all the zest of a lynch mob.

Hippies were shotgunned by these marauding vigilantes. Beaten and bruised hippies were jailed for disturbing the peace when they tried to report the crime, sometimes being told they had just got what they had deserved. One longhair was arrested for bleeding on the officer when he tried to report a beating.

You can speculate on the reason, but while Police vigorously pursued people with marijuana and psychedelics, many ignored hard drug dealers who very openly set up shop along the sidewalk on 11th Street. Wonder why the Police looked the other way?

After the hippies, and the ensuing deluge, the streets of the Flower Children got real mean,  Strip joints, hard drugs, death and mutilation replaced the head shops, the funky little coffeehouses and the leather craft stores. There was a significant  difference in the character of the Strip by 1973 as contrasted with the sense of community and purpose it had once had.

“A year ago,” says Bruce Pemberton of the Bridge, the area’s runaway mediation center, “I could spend five hours on the Strip, rapping the whole time. Now I can walk down there and literally not see a person I know.”

The Strip then seemed populated largely by runaways, transients, part-time hippies, and drug dealers. A visitor to the area rarely ran into the sort of young person who talked about an intellectualized search for alternative cultures; as used to be the case, instead there seems to be mostly people who parrot catch phrases about “the establishment” and the “‘pigs”.

Some disagree with this assessment. “I still think the same kind of kid that came down to this area four or five years ago and got involved in the community is still coming down, and that’s the tragedy of it.”

“It’s a business out there,” says Dennis Doherty, director of  the Community Crisis Center, the agency that works most directly with the street people. “A lot of people wouldn’t be out there if they weren’t working — dealing (drugs), crafts, or spare-changing (panhandling).

Doherty says some of the seekers still come to the area and volunteer to work in one of the several agencies handling Strip problems. But when these people are absorbed into the highly structured system of agencies, they cease to be true street people.”

“It got pretty tawdry during the hippie era. They weren’t just peddling the Great Speckled Bird [underground newspaper} on the streets. You couldn’t walk 20 feet without somebody trying to sell you drugs or pot”.

“After the hippies pulled out, we had our fire age,” says an area resident. “Everywhere you see a vacant lot or a pocket park, there was a major fire in the late 1970s. Speculators would buy a building leased by a TV repair shop or a go-go club and two weeks later, the place would burn down. Very mysterious. But some of us tough cookies held on and made improvements.”

The police started building bridges to the rest of the community. As part of a trend that was taking place in many of the major cities of the country, their new attitude was one of trying to understand, ”or at least communicate with the community. And if hippies happened to be members of the area, communicate with them too. Rap sessions took place between people who were once throwing bricks and tear gas canisters. The thugs eventually found other rocks to crawl under and for 10 years, and more, Tight Squeeze was on hold. Cha Gio, Theatrical Outfit, Brother Juniper’s and some gay bars kept it alive.

While the new cast members play before the hundreds of automobiles cruising slowly by, the original or early characters are seeking new scripts for their lives—and the scenarios they are choosing usually exclude the high visibility inherent to The Strip. Many hips—especially those who set up housekeeping—moved away from Tight Squeeze and its problems. Throughout the middle stretch of  Atlanta, there are hip families and generally they make good neighbors. The reasons for this diaspora are manifold and intertwined. They include police pressure, drugs, publicity and the changing nature of the people involved.

The underlying purpose of the Strip also seems to have changed. What started out as one specific facet of the alternative culture of the hip movement in the area appears to have become an end in itself to the newcomers to the hip scene.

Today the Strip lies in something of a limbo state: The larger hip community seems to be abandoning the struggle to keep the street life going, while no new leaders rise from the crowd to take up the battle flag cast aside in the retreat.

THERE ARE exceptions to the charge of abandonment. Earlier staff members of the Great Speckled Bird, an underground newspaper in Atlanta, staged a “loiter-in” demonstration on the Strip to protest the great number of arrests under the “Safe Streets and Sidewalks” ordinance.

For about two and a half hours the Bird staffers loitered  on the sidewalk wearing picket signs announcing “We ain’t doing nothing” and “I’ll stay out of your way if you’ll stay out of mine.” The police stood by and watched and there were considerably fewer arrests that night.

But participation in the demonstration by the street people was less than enthusiastic. While the pickets were there, a few Strip regulars stood talking, remarking how pleasant it was not to have to “keep moving” or risk arrest. Later, however, when the demonstrators had gone, the situation returned more or less to normal, and few obvious loiterers were noted among the street people.

On another night there was an arrest of several young people in a car in the alley behind the Strip. As is traditional, a crowd of street people swarmed angrily toward the bust. talking about resistance and riot.

In the past, similar scenes had sometimes developed into vigorous resistance as the affronted hips banded together to protect their own. This time though, when a single portly policeman strode purposefully toward the crowd and growled, “Move it out,” the longhairs quietly scattered and went back to strolling along the Strip.

The seekers of three or four years ago brought a kind of coherence and purpose to street life, mostly in their efforts, to put together agencies to deal with problems.

Those of today, however, tend to move directly into established programs, and their abilities are directed not toward creating unity as much as toward solving individual crises.

The Rev. Greg Santos, cofounder of the Bridge, recalls that when he came on the scene the most binding activity was the drive to form the helping agencies needed in the area — the crisis center, the runaway facility, temporary housing for transients, and so forth.

Now these are organized and operating, most of them stable in their concepts if not in financing or staff. Santos suggests there is little left for the original “movers and shakers” to do, so they are leaving.

Some people within the hip community go so far as to suggest that if the crisis center and Aurora, a church-sponsored recreation center on the Strip, were not offering the services they do, the street people would not remain.

Doherty, on the other hand, says the removal of the agencies might actually bring back some of the lost leadership in a renewed effort to bring stability to the Strip.

No one can predict the future of the street life in Tight Squeeze, the historic name for the Peachtree 10th Street area. In 1968 it was announced that the Strip was dead and that there would be no more hippie community, but that forecast was quickly proved mistaken. ”

In a sort of hibernation since last fall, the Strip now is rebuilding its population with the increase in summer travelers and school vacationers. The tourist trade is beginning to pick up. Daily arrests are at a higher level than last summer when there was a special police precinct set up to deal specifically with the area.

The hip community leaders who have left the Strip and who now lack confidence in its ability to survive seem not to consider one possibility: That others could develop into leaders just as they once did, and as others before them did.

It is not impossible that a new “generation” of community organizers could spring from the street people this year, or next, independent of the older community which is moving on to new pursuits.

It seems unlikely, on looking at the apparently aimless character of the street people at this moment. But that could change with the influx of a new group of highly motivated young people.

Dennis Doherty describes the Strip as a “phase in the hip way of life. The question is, are the motivated, sincere newcomers going to feel it a necessary phase in their own development?

Like the land along Peachtree Street’s seamy “Triangle” area, Atlanta’s other major adult entertainment strip—Peachtree from Eighth Street to 12th Street—is owned by some of the city’s most prominent citizens.

The owners of the property all say they rent to their controversial tenants because there are no other takers for the premises. “I hate the fact that we’ve got  to rent to that kind of establishment,” said Massell. “But at the same time we’ve got taxes and loan payments.

“If you leave a building vacant they (winos) come in and burn down the block. And so nobody wants it. I’ve owned that property since 1950. We’ve produce stores. We’ve had delicatessens. We had a first-rate neighborhood shopping center.

“But when the hippies moved in— you saw what happened. Many people were afraid to go down there.

1986 In 120 years, this colorful Peachtree-l0th Street district of Midtown Atlanta has evolved from a perilous bottleneck known as Tight Squeeze in the 1860s to a charming residential neighborhood named Blooming Hill in the 1880s to the tony 10th Street shopping area of the 1920s to the hippie- jammed Strip of the 1960s and early ’70s.

Garrett, Franklin. “A Short History of Land Lots 105 and 106 of the 17th District of Fulton County, Georgia,” Atlanta Historical Journal, Vol. XXVII #2, 39-54.

Garrett, Franklin. Atlanta and Environs: A Chronicle of Its People and Events, Athens: University of Georgia Press,

Atlanta’s “hippie ghetto“

Strip  From The Great Speckled Bird Vol. 2 Issue 36 Nov. 17, 1969 page 2.

14th Street

Straights often see the 14th Street – 10th Street area as Atlanta’s “hippie ghetto“. For the people who live there, crash there, deal there, sell Birds there, it’s the Community.

The Community first came into existence because the area offered the Park, cheap rent or open crash – pads, and a relatively open climate that created by a art students, survivors of the “beat “movement, and the gay crowd. After the first “Summer of Love, “ 1967, Atlanta waited for the fad to blow over. In 1968, with the community growing instead of fading away, the city tried harassment and repression. But the Community lived.

Memories hang onto remnants, flashes. Those circus openings at the Mandala. And the Catacombs, that was a trip by itself. And 14th Street, the colorful kaleidoscope of costumes, the traffic jams, walking out to cars and sharing a joint until the light changed.

Those other memories, too. Like {“Mother David”} Braden, and the conspiracy that trapped him. And paranoia, distrust, days so uptight that nothing could get to you.

But even when the 14 Street area was the greatest magnet, we knew that the best of what was happening, is happening, has little would do with geography. It’s being young. It’s refusing to be programmed toward success, money, and war. It’s daring to seek a new identity.

In March 1966 The Bird was born. Its creators were an entirely unlikely crew of varied motivations, determined to speak to and through this search for identity, and at the same time possibly provide a radical alternative news source.

From the beginning, The Bird’s relationship to the community was strange complex. Without the community people, The Bird could never have survived. Heat, cold, rain, harassment, through it all Street people appeared weekly to sell, to survive.

But despite the mutual need between sellers and staffers, we have often had separate purposes. Involvement in the street scene is rare among Bird staffers. We’re older, we’re into politics, or music, or art. And we sense resentment, contempt from hip people who see us as “too political, “. There is particular resentment of our call for militant struggle, or other organizing rhetoric. The Bird got specific criticism from street people for its “politics“ in one article, which exposed the backers of the Atlanta Pop Festival, and even the article on Our Park (September 22nd), which called for unity in the community, was attacked by street people for its militancy. Ironically, the week after the park article, the community did indeed band together to struggle against repression in the park.

Now the dollar barons of Atlanta have seen more profitable uses for the community area. For a while it was profitable to rent to hippies since they demanded no upkeep on property. But the hassles with dope were getting a little heavy. So the word is now “smash the hippies“. For the Atlanta establishment, “hippie “is a catchall phrase to be applied to The Bird, street people, anyone with beads, or hair below their ear lobes.

With street people, it’s been drug busts, hundreds in a month’s time. For Bird staffers it’s busts for “inciting to riot, “or “obscenity, “ or “contributing to the delinquency of minors.” There was the Piedmont Park police riot, and harassment continues.

We know this sweep was encouraged by the kingpins of Cushman Corporation, who now get their rocks off by at my admiring the towering concrete prick at the corner of 14th and Peachtree. And to make room for their carefully planned metropolis. The crash pads are being cleared, as well as “to the old Birdhouse. “

The Birdhouse is gone, at our deadline, nothing left but the shell of that grand old House, with a gaping wound in it’s side. The Warehouse, the new Bird office, sits on the border of Buttermilk Bottoms, a black community. Like any new clothes, we know our new location will change us, change how Atlanta sees us.

The Community, still hanging on to the 14th Street area, may be forced out in six months, one year or two. Perhaps for us to, it’s good riddance. Perhaps with it will go those trying to exploit youth culture for private gain. We’ve all been screwed by the hippie capitalists. The destructive bent of competition threatens Atlantis Rising, which tried to bring to the Community a promise from more than profit. And perhaps as the Community is crowded out by Colony Square, it can leave behind those manipulators trying to hook kids on hard drugs for profit.

We know the lifestyle revolution is happening. No ghetto can contain the community of spirit.

– maude

…in our park

 

The Great Speckled Bird Vol 2 #29 9/29/69 pgs. 2-5

In photo - Bill Fibben and George Nikas’ feathered headdress.
In photo – Bill Fibben and George Nikas’ feathered headdress.

…in our park A gray September afternoon in Piedmont Park, a fall drizzle filtering down onto the people gathered around the pavilion for the music of the Radar and the Brick Wall. The chilling rain gives a vigor to people’s movements and several circles of dancers come and go trying to recapture the intensity of communal fun/ peace from last week’s explosion of sound/feeling/motion. This September concert was merely the most re- cent of such free concerts which date back to the Bird birthday party in April and which occurred regularly on greater and lesser scale all summer, the most memorable being the free Grateful Dead concert when people moved as ONE, and even a policeman was rallied to as a savior of peace.

(second narc’s head covers The Celestial Omnibus parked behind.)
(second narc’s head covers The Celestial Omnibus parked behind.)

The tone of this afternoon was solid, people knowing each other, together and calm. We of The Bird were in the Park taking affidavits about police harassment, attempting through the law to insure that young people could move around peacefully in the parks and on the streets without fear of arrest. Then it started.

The Brick Wall-now under charges of drug abuse on the vaguest of information—had just started to play. The word was: Narks—secret police—were lurking in the Park. Several people, protecting their brothers, had already pointed out two men as narks.

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George Nikas being arrested.

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Suddenly a man in regular clothes came up and grabbed Gorg Nikas, a well-known street person, and brusquely started pushing him out of the Park. About the same time that Nikas shouted, “Show me your badge,” someone rushed from the crowd and tried to pull Nikas away. Immediately, the man pulled a small revolver, grabbed Nikas back, shoved the gun in Nikas back and shouted, “Get back or I’ll blow his fucking brains out.” [He was standing on my dog’s leg and I yelled at him and looked up into a rising gun barrel.]

People began to follow at some distance, a lawyer following within five feet. Nikas demanded again as he was shoved along to see the badge and the crowd picked up the demand, chanting, “Show your badge, show your badge.” Then, when no identification was forthcoming, “Let him go, let him go.” When Nikas ran into a light pole, the procession stopped short and a crowd of about twenty gathered around, chanting, “Let him go.” The gun was then brandished at the crowd. Within a minute Nikas pulled away and ran, the man following with his gun for only a few steps before he turned and ran in the opposite direction.

Things cooled, the Brick Wall played on, and people gravitated back to the pavilion, a solid anger remaining. Steve Cole took the mike to announce, “Somebody’s been busted in our Park, but the boy has gotten away. Cool it. There are narks in the crowd wearing guns and they’re crazy.” The music returned. About ten minutes later police cars started arriving. The man who had grabbed Nikas came striding into the Park escorted by two helmeted policemen and two uniformed policemen went directly to Bill Fibben, a Bird photographer who had shot the whole Nikas hassle.

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Bill Fibben arrested for filming public police brutality.

As Fibben was being hustled out of the pavilion area, the crowd began a spontaneous chant, “Pigs, pigs, pigs.” The police then grabbed the nearest person, David Slier, and took him along with Fibben to the cars parked near the concession. [Luckily Bill had emptied his film and handed it off before the cops came back.]

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We stood and fought back: The Parks belong to the People.

A crowd of two to three hundred quickly surrounded the police cars, and a car was brought to block a forward exit. Nikas was handcuffed in the back seat of one of  the cars and Fibben and Slier were in the other. The experience was finally sinking deep now, grinding against everything that had been built/experienced in the Park, rasping the nerve ends that had been so beautifully laid bare by building a communal event in the Park, the crowd longhair, shorthair, politico, straight -crystallized, exploded, and together one hundred fists shot up in the air. The chant rang, PIGS OUT OF THE PARK. LET THEM GO, LET OUR BROTHERS GO.

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Police chase down Little Billy for a billie club to the back of the head.

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Clubbed in the head and carried by his hair.

For twenty minutes the chorus continued sporadically and the cars remained surrounded. Steve Cole. announcer for the rock concert, approached a captain and pleaded with him to let him help quiet the crowd. The officer continued to unwrap gas canisters, turned his back and replied, “Yeah, you go ahead and break up the crowd.” Thirty seconds later  the first teargas  in- and people scattered. Though the prisoners were finally removed, the police remained, too stupid to understand they had won a victory even by getting the prisoners out of the Park. What they understood was this: The Park belongs to the Police, not the People. And they were there to prove that.

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Paddy wagons scaled the drive coming north of the lake below the tennis court hill while squads of policemen began to make forays out into the Park. From the top of the hill a sporadic barrage of small rocks and cans came down onto the wagons and was returned by tear gas canisters which in turn were hurled back. Two policemen then swept along the top of the hill clearing people off with the aid of the tear gas and meeting no resistance.

For a moment activity subsided and it seemed that tailings were over. People still were running around through the thin tear gas veil that hung over the Park. The band had stopped playing, routed, I learned later, by tear gas. Then tear gas began to explode again in the area of the stone grotto steps and I saw policemen frantically throwing the canisters in all directions and people running away. From up on the ball field I could hear random chants, “Pigs out of the Park,” and as I came up onto the field I saw the police lined up in phalanx across the ball field steps to the pavilion, guarding the steps like they were the door to C&S’s vaults. From that position the police continually threw tear gas and ran out into the crowd to arrest and sometimes club people. The scattered crowd came back and forth, re- ceding with the tear gas and police attacks, and returning to the chorus, “Pigs out of the Park.” A scuffle broke out between a cop and a girl (the women often being more militant than the men). The girl ran and the officer pulled a long-barrelled silver pistol, aimed and fired. Evidently no one was hit.

For thirty minutes the police charged out and the people returned. Several times a group tried to quiet the chant and protest. V-signs went up from many and some one stood on a stone pillar to rap. “These men are on your side. They are flesh and blood like you and me. Stop and join them in peace.” And several times the reply came: “Toms,” “Pigs out of the Park.” “We want one thing: We want the police to leave the Park so we can have our music back.” PEACE does not mean SURRENDER.

Not until a lawyer had arrived and talked the police into withdrawing some of their “mad dog cops” did the people subside. Some wanted to make our purpose clear, a few wanted to quit and leave the cops in the Park, and most wanted to stay and hear music.

The demands were raised. Free our brothers and drop charges. No more secret agents and armed police in the Park. Police out of the Park and our music back. Twice the people responded to those demands with acclamation, raised fists, and “right-on.” It was decided to return to the pavilion, take the music back, collect bail, and take statements. For the moment, the demands to drop the charges and free the prisoners were forgotten. The police had actually won another minor victory. Below in the pavilion, as people took up bail money and typed statements, a full school bus of cops, riot ready, waited for any challenge to their control of Piedmont Park.

 Mayor 

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Ivan Allen arrived to provide the media with a convenient political symbol of paternal riot-quelling. Things were already quiet and the efforts to get the bands going were underway. White-haired bureaucrat, father of a city image built on big business and a modicum of welfare, he said little, stared into eyes, feeling betrayed as always that his children cannot accept his system of bureaucratic paternal authority. When we tried to tell him our side of what had happened, he replied only: “Put it in writing.”

The music returned. Back at the Birdhouse, a state of community struggle emerged, people giving statements, asking what could be done, contributing generously for bonds.

In the dark and in the drizzle the music went on to ten-thirty. [It felt like the arrival of a superhero when Hosea Williams led in a contingent of large Black men to protect The Bird House.] Hosea Williams of SCLC came to lend support. “What you have to understand is that this same thing has been happening to black people for a long time—and partly for the same reason: because they don’t want to conform to the ways of this sick, racist society. We got to put a stop to this, whatever the cost. They might put us in jail, they might even kill us-but unless a man has something he’s willing to die for, he doesn’t have much reason to live anyway. The reason they’re brutalizing you is simple: you want to live your own life, your own way.” Cheers and a few right-on’s.

At stake in this struggle is whether, in the process of trying to mold a new society in the womb of the old, we can maintain our vision of peace, of community, of love and family, and at the same time militantly defend our vision against repression. There are those who would counsel peace, meaning on this incident, total surrender in the face of repression. There are those who would counsel total struggle and who will lose their vision. There are those powers-that-be who now counsel, “Cool it,” obey all our ways or leave. It is clear to me that we must defend our vision as it emerges in concrete forms. The communal music/experience in Piedmont Park is that vision.

-Jim Gwin

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FOIBLES TO ADE PEOPLE -og, king ofbashan-

9/29/1969

FOIBLES TO ADE PEOPLE: L1

One day in Municipal Court the Judge looked down over his Bench an there was a Liddle Old Lady in a wheelchair with a big old Bandage around her headbone an a sling on her Arm an a Trained Nurse standin by holdin plasma which was flowin into her other Arm and the Judge says like this My goodness madam whatever Happened to you? An a Cop standin by says Judge this is the way it happened an the Judge says shut up son i ast this Lady here an i will Talk to you Later.

So the liddle ol lady says Judge we citizens really need protection from Riff and Raff these days why the ‘”Streets ain’t safe for Decent People no more an the Judge says well yes i hev heard Somethin like That but i am sure that our Noble Bluecoats are doin the Best they can an the Lady says well Maybe so but when a Honest liddle ol Lady like I cant roll the streets in her Wheelchair without bein set upon by Hoodlums why something must be Did an the Judge says kindly-like well How did it Happen? , .

Well says the Liddle ol Lady i was rollin down the sidewalk at Fourteenth an Peachtree the Other day (Oh wow says the Judge that is a bad Neighborhood; you are Tellin me says the lady with the Bandages) an i was On my Way to the store for my Bosco when a Feller comes ‘up to Me an says Hey liddle ol lady in a power wheelchair, how about I turn you on? an I says I am runnin priddy good up to now, thank you, but if I feel like I am shuttin off 1 will contact you, son (an the Judge says So it was the Dope Pushers what jumped on you an Beated you up about the Head an Shoulders an rendered you into a Hospital Case; i always Knew them Potblowers an morninggloryseedchewers an Opium Smokers was up to No Good: an the ol lady says No it was not this Young Gentleman at all, let me Tell you: an the Judge says Excuse Me, go on with your Story) so she goes on:

So i Roll down the Street a Liddle Ways an here Comes a young man with Long Hair an a Beard an purple Fingernails an he is Sellin Papers an he says like this:

Bird, lady? an I say I hev a parakeet but he says Nasty Words an i am Thinkin of Gettin Rid of Him an the young man says Ha Ha well I guess you do not want this Bird Either because sometimes it does too an I say oh really well Maybe I will take it because it Might keep my parakeet company an Besides it is funny to wake up at Night an hear the Liddle Dear goin kahkah to His self (an the Judge sed so it was the Pornography Merchants what did you in; I always figured they Read they Own stuff an get all charged Up an go roarin out into the Public Thoroughfares intent on Rapin the first Passerby: it must hev been Awful for you; no such Luck says the Liddle 01 Lady an if you will jus Hush your Mouth i will tell you how it Happened.)

Priddy soon, she says, I begin to near music in the Direction of the Park an so I roll on over in that Direction; i am really enjoy in the Music when i get there because see I am deaf an it has been a long Time since I hev been where there is Music i can hear; though to Tell you the Truth some thin is goin wrong with my Glasse. hippys run amok an stomped you into the Piedmont Sod; no says the Lady, let me tell you)

Well she says 1 was listenin to the Music an watchin the kids dance, an somebody was Burnin somethin that made a Awful priddy smell an 1 was breathin deep an jus bein out in Nature like that made me feel Real Good; when all of a Sudden i was somehow just Overcome with Emotion an begun to Cry. An i noticed that Several Young People aroun me was beginnin to Cry too an 1 thought how Nice that was an how nex time I came I wood bring a book an read them some of the Poems of Elizabeth Barrett Browning; an priddy soon Everybody was Cryin an boohooin an blubberin an I took off my glasses an dropped them an Then i was in Bad Shape because I couldnt see nothin: but through the smoke an haze i did see a Blue Uniform an i rolled over that Way an said like this Officer could you help me Find my Glasses’.’

An he said like this Oh Wise Guy Eh an the first thing I know I wake up in jail an it turns out I have a busted head an nineteen Stitches an a creased clavicle an a bunch of Charges filed against me, namely usin dope resistin arrest, assaultin a officer, wisein off to a Bluecoat, an Leavin the Scene of a Accident. An i think, the lady winds up, that somebody is goin aroun in the Uniform of the Atlanta Police Department an doin all kinds of bad Numbers on People; an that if the ciddy dont want to Lose its Good Name, they Better do somethin about it.

Moral: Violence is Addictive: an the innocent Policeman who starts out with a Liddle Harmless drunk-beatin or hippy-roustin or n_gger-sluggin may eventually Fall into Bad Habits.

-og, king ofbashan-

Sunday in the Park

The Great Speckled Bird Vol 2 #29 9/29/69 pgs. 2-5

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Sunday in the Park    September 20, 1969

img765All the classical elements were present in Piedmont Park Sunday: the cops—some juiced up at the prospect of jabbing a hippie cunt, some restrained by-the-bookers, some clearly hesitant, avoiding action as best they could. The people: the ideologues, digging the harvest of this super-naked repression; the innocents (“give peace a chance”) in battle for the first time and therefore as ideologically hamstrung as the “militants”; the pure music freaks who split before the first teargas canister told us what was coming down; the liberals who looked on in voyeuristic horror (and who later confirmed what we knew then-a police riot); and those who could neither throw things at the cops nor agree not to, who saw a community getting its shit together and could not leave until the police did. And the capitalist press, scurrying about in quest of the “balanced view” they come up with when (and only when) the police go berserk. But this time, it was US and not our brothers Amerika saw on the Sunday night news.

Our liberal friends will assail  the individual overt acts of “police brutality”: the unnecessary beatings, the spontaneous attacks upon people, the revolver fired into the crowd. That’s fine, but what we face involves not just the violence freaks who make up a slight minority of the Atlanta P. D (and the cops showed more restraint for a longer period than 1 saw in Berkeley last May), but the system-generated and -reinforced predisposition with which every white cop walks among us. We are, in some vague, ill-defined way, not human beings. Their commitment to protect the citizens of Atlanta evaporates when the police patrol our community. They create violations of unconstitutional laws (“occupying a dive,” “loitering”), ferret out our violations of legislated Puritanism (dope). The easiest way to create a “fascist” state is to pass a plethora of laws which are then selectively enforced. Mr. Business Suit waits for a bus; a freak loiters. Dope is illegal; so is padding defense contracts. – Identifying for your friends an undercover police agent is not illegal; but that is the bust which the community resisted to the extent of 23 arrests, dozens of tear gas bombs, several injuries, and the guerrilla action that happened Sunday.

The V-sign “third force” (“Forgive them for they know not what they do”), one of whom offered to testify “against the people who threw rocks at the policeman,” would have us keep our park “privileges” through asskissing; they have not understood that the city “gave” us the park for our music because we are powerful enough to convince them that it is in their interest to do so.

A park cannot be liberated by permit, cannot be “free” just because freaks come together to dig some fine music. Sunday was about what comes down when, in the course of being who and what we are (NOTE: not in the course of tearing down the Amerikan Empire), we transgress the constricted lifestyle that is acceptable in and to this rotten country.

George Nikas, in the great tradition of Paul Revere, advertised the coming of the nark. The rock thus overturned, what crawled out busted George for “interfering with an officer.” And a community that knows bullshit when it sees it said so. Loudly. And the battle was joined.

Translate. Picture your father being arrested for any thing; imagine the guys in his office putting up the massive, together. group resistance that we generated Sunday. 1 cannot. We are different people, a qualitatively distinct species, and we deny our distance from our parents at the peril of every thing we believe in, stand for.. dig, and (most important) arc. Bust one of us, we said Sunday, and you deal with all of us. This is the lesson for the gentle ones who flashed V’s and begged the crowd to “stop.”

Sunday’s resistance was not “revolutionary antics,” The work of “agitators.” Sunday was a defense of the kind of life we have chosen to live. That life includes music; it includes dope; but more significant, and of revolutionary impact, is our self-perception as a people acting in unity. That is new, that is what makes us who we are. To then fall back to a love-and-peace stance which quickly  becomes a hate-the-bottle-throwers posture is to fragment the solidarity that saw politicos and culture freaks standing side by side.

Tactically, rocking the cops is for me of dubious battle; but those rocks, bottles, and empty tear gas canisters responded to an invasion of our tribal celebration. The police brought to bear on us their first priority: the bust. We responded with a different priority: solidarity. There are only two sides in the framework. On one side stand the musicians, the trippers, the rock throwers—”- on the other stand the cops, and the dividing line is not gentleness..

Joni Mitchell sings, “I can be cruel, but let me be gentle with you.” Gentleness is a factor in our uniqueness, but when we are not allowed to be gentle, we can be cruel, we must be cruel, or we will not survive. Amerika’s zoo, stop # 14 on a Grayline tour-these the city fathers may allow us to be, as long as when their push comes to our shove, we gently retreat across the playing fields of Piedmont, out of the park, and re-atomize into the individualized, competitive trick bag that keeps people from getting together in gentleness.

Sunday made us “Panthers”; like them we fight now, not for a cause, but for our own survival. And the time comes to speak of “genocide.” On the day of our battle, the narks got 1,000 pounds of grass in Riverside, California. In “A Litany for the American People,” read at People’s Park, Tom Parkinson put into the mouth of “The Governing Forces of the United States” these words:

We will impose unjust laws and chaotic order on all the citizens we hate.. .all males with peculiar sexual mores, all with hair on their faces, all with long hair growing out of their heads, all artists and poets and musicians and honest scientists, all women who are proud and happy with their naturally beautiful hair and bodies and have lovely sexual ideas, and we will cut and shave and tear out their hair and condemn them to endless oppression and allow only one style of life… and we will put in prison anyone who smokes the mild benign weed called marijuana. to which he has “The People of the United States” respond, “COUNT ME OUT, COUNT ME OUT, COUNT ME OUT.”

The deal is this: if we insist on smoking grass, digging our music, thinking our thoughts, making love the way we choose, then Amerika offers us only prison and firebombing. To avoid a hassle, cut your hair, lay off grass, buy your music from “the containment industry,” accept the sexual standards of this society, and shut up.

Choose. And after you choose, dig that resistance to genocide grows only in solidarity, the refusal to be tricked into rejecting others for whom the same choice means throwing rocks at cops. And at this point, wily Ben Franklin’s advice comes once more to mind: we will hang, he reminds us—together or separately.

-greg gregory